As he does at dinner, Ryan Smith displays the same sharp techniques and thoughtful compositions at brunch that make Staplehouse the city’s most exciting restaurant. Who else garnishes their omelettes with smoky bonito flakes (dried, fermented, and smoked trout) or, for that matter, serves foie gras torchon with grilled olive oil brioche and fermented lemon-tumeric puree? Where are you going to find soulful potlikker at this hour? Smith’s flavorful jus is the work of marinated cabbage and onions, mixed with a smoky beef heart pastrami and a fried egg. Doors open at noon, and, unlike almost every other brunch in town, Staplehouse takes reservations. Make them.

541 Edgewood Ave., 404-524-5005,