Ah, the bumpy flight of the Flying Biscuit. In 2007 owner Delia Champion partnered with local franchise operator Raving Brands to expand beyond the Candler Park original and its Midtown offshoot. The quality at the franchised branches (there are now nine in Georgia) falters: We sampled rubbery eggs in Sandy Springs and overcooked biscuits in Buckhead. The flagship, launched in 1993, has experienced its own ups and downs over the years, though recently we returned to find the cooking improved. The side room, with its sunny walls depicting mountains and sunflowers, is as sweet and soothing as ever. We’ll stick with the original then, but a note to the staff: Please return to serving the cranberry-apple butter in jars on the table rather than in tiny plastic cups, which feels stingy.
ORDER THIS: Smoked salmon scramble with dill cream cheese; turkey hash, the meat cooked to the reassuring texture of pot roast; whole-wheat biscuit.
1655 McLendon Avenue, 404-687-8888, and other locations, flyingbiscuit.com