A plate of hash browns at Ticonderoga Club costs $10. But it’s not really a plate. It’s more like a platter or a wide serving tray with more crispy hash browns than you could ever finish in one or even two sittings. The whole thing is blanketed in American cheese and onions. Dishes like these hash browns or the bacon, egg, and cheese sandwich or a crispy fish sandwich with hushpuppies sound unabashedly basic, as if ripped from a Waffle House menu, but the execution and the quality are there. Start with the platter of fried dough served with chorizo, avocado, smoky refried beans, fried eggs, and whipped butter. My favorite order might be the off-menu “Barnesville Breakfast,” a Red Hot sausage sandwich slathered in mustard and served with a side of, wait for it, Mountain Dew. Greg Best is behind the bar on cocktails so if you need a pick-me-up (like his twist on a Bloody Mary made with gin), he’s there to help.
99 Krog St., 404-458-4534, ticonderogaclub.com