Historians can argue whether it was the French or Belgians who first dropped raw potatoes into a vat of hot oil, but fries today are the life partner to the American hamburger. To find them in their classic and unadulterated form, head to Miller Union, which consistently delivers airy, crisp wonders that balance starch and crunch. They’re dressier down the street at Bocado, where the herb fries are green with parsley and garlic, waxed with clarified butter, and primed for dunking in a buttermilk dill dressing. For the prima donna of pommes frites, head to Canoe, where the fries are thick cut, tossed and fried with sage and rosemary, and garnished with truffle oil and thin sheets of Parmigiano-Reggiano. If you care more about sauces than you do the fries themselves, look to Leon’s Full Service and Wrecking Bar Brewpub. Both serve them as appetizers with a range of clever dipping partners like a tangy goat cheese fondue, herbed green goddess, and Massaman curry with coconut milk.
This article originally appeared in our January 2015 issue.