A worldly bird

It’s a southern staple, certainly, but these international dishes prove fried chicken tastes delicious in every culture
Cardamom Hill

Photograph by Greg Dupree

INDIAN | Cardamom Hill
Chef-owner Asha Gomez swathes marinated, boneless chicken thighs in a fine-crumbed breading fragrant with spices and a drizzle of coconut oil. Fried curry leaves and a piquant mango sauce complete the dish, which is served over rice or (the more popular option) a hot waffle. $24. cardamomhill.net

THAI | Tuk Tuk thai food loft
On Monday nights, chef and co-owner DeeDee Niyomkul re-creates a variation of fried chicken cooked by her grandmother, a Bangkok street-food vendor. Bone-in chicken soaks overnight in
a marinade that includes lemongrass, garlic, and white pepper and is dipped in rice-flour batter before frying. Niyomkul serves it with a green papaya salad, sticky rice, and three dipping sauces: tamarind–sweet chile, mushroom-soy, and chile-lime. $15. tuktukatl.com

CHINESE | Bo Bo Garden
Buford Highway’s Cantonese star labels its masterpiece “crispy garlic flavor chicken.” A whole bird is deep-fried, cut into chunks, and then topped with frizzled garlic and scallions. Gai lan (Chinese broccoli), an off-the-menu side dish, would sub nicely for collards. $9.50 for a half bird; $20 for a whole bird. 678-547-1881

GUATEMLAN | Pollo Campero
This international fried chicken chain has three metro-area locations—in Norcross and Roswell and on Buford Highway—and gives the Southern chains some serious competition. A citrusy marinade gives the fried chicken surprising depth. Among the sides, go for the feisty beans punched up with chorizo and bacon. Two pieces with one side, $4.99–$5.99. campero.com

SALVADORAN | Rincon Latino
At this BuHi stalwart, a mound of copper-colored, extra-crisp, mostly boneless morsels comes with rice pilaf, refried beans, fried plantains, and handmade tortillas. $10.99. 770-936-8181

KOREAN | Pizza & Chicken Love Letter
Skip the pizza at this Johns Creek outpost of a Korean chain also called Cheogajip. Save your appetite for the chicken, dipped in a thin batter before frying and emerging smooth and crackly. Served plain or painted with one of two sauces: sweet and mild or sweet and spicy. $13.99 for a plain whole chicken. johnscreekchicken.com

This article originally appeared in our January 2014 issue