Best of Atlanta 2015 Food & Dining
New Pizza: O4W Pizza
Antico Pizza Napoletana may still hold the city’s title belt, but this modest operation in the Irwin Street Market has emerged as a serious contender.
Fried Chicken: Busy Bee
The intoxicating aroma of this soul food institution’s signature dish hits you before you’re even halfway to the front door. With a featherlight crust that flakes onto the table and into your lap, and flesh as juicy as potlikker, this chicken is as hallowed as the restaurant itself, which opened in 1947.
New Bread: Lion Tamer Bread
Almost every day, Brian Dulisse folds and kneads up to 120 rustic rounds of sourdough, rye, and other breads by hand.
Savory Pies: Panbury’s
Inside Sweet Auburn Curb Market, a young couple from South Africa turn out savory hand-held meat pies, samosas, and sausage rolls.
Cornbread: Revival
We’re told that the recipe is bestowed upon only one person in Kevin Gillespie’s family at any given time. The story could be full of lard, but who cares—his cornbread triangles cooked in a cast-iron skillet are pure genius.
New Ice Cream: Queen of Cream
Cora Cotrim’s charming ice cream carts still show up at farmers markets, but now you can find her every day in a brick-and-mortar parlor in the Old Fourth Ward.
Mac and Cheese: Watershed
Thanks be to new Watershed chef Zeb Stevenson, who has kept one of his predecessor’s greatest triumphs on the menu.
Fries: Okonomiyaki at Illegal Food
Don’t let the intimidating pronunciation stop you from ordering these satisfying Osaka-style fries, festooned with pickled ginger, fermented chili sauce, toasted seaweed, and Japanese mayo—all topped with pencil shavings of bonito flakes (dried and fermented fish).
Hot Dogs: Doggy Dogg
Let’s say, hypothetically, that you’ve had one too many cocktails at Kimball House, where the kitchen closes at midnight. Solution? Stumble across the street for one of James Hammerl’s quirky gourmet hot dogs, available until 2 a.m. on weekends.
Vegetable Plate: Miller Union
No dish captures the genius of Steven Satterfield quite like this unassuming veg plate. Summer finds include lima beans and corn cooked in cream and scented with tarragon, served alongside chunky, crisp fingers of fried okra that snap and crunch like green beans.
Tacos: Chicago Supermarket
Hand-pressed, freshly ground masa dough, vibrant salsas, and tender meat spell the difference between good and great tacos. At this hopping grocer-taqueria, lingua (tongue), cabeza (head meat), and goat come straight from the butcher counter in the back.
Bar Snacks: The Porter Beer Bar
Nick Rutherford and Molly Gunn’s narrow tavern in Little Five Points gives bites like salt and vinegar popcorn, hushpuppies with organic applesauce, and fried pickles with pimento cheese serious thought.
Burger: Bones
When this lunch-only half-pounder from Atlanta’s oldest steakhouse topped our burger list last January, some readers were flummoxed. But we’ve yet to find another patty so loosely ground, so supremely beefy, and so consistently cooked (order it medium-rare, always).
Daring Meal: Parts Menu at Holeman and Finch Public House
The offal at Linton Hopkins’s gastropub may daunt even the most red in tooth. But muster up the nerve and you’ll be rewarded with delicate veal brains cooked in black butter and capers, lightly fried lamb testicles, and Ossabaw hog head cheese.
Dish for Two: Chuletón at Cooks & Soldiers
The best steak we tasted all year was this dry-aged, bone-in ribeye weighing in at a heart-stopping 2.2 pounds. Served with a Tempranillo bordelaise sauce, the hunk arrives with a crusty, smoky sear and meat so velvety that it might as well be custard.
New Fine Dining: Atlas
Is that an original Picasso hanging above your booth? You bet your caviar it is. But despite the abundance of museum-quality art, Atlas is more than just a beautifully designed space. It’s also a wonderful place to dine.
Hipster Hangout: Ladybird Grove and Mess Hall
The base camp for the bearded, tattooed masses is this rustic watering hole on the Atlanta BeltLine. That’s not a knock against the place—more like a dress code alert, so you don’t saunter in sporting Vineyard Vines or Jimmy Choos.
Restaurant for Vegetarians: Madras Mantra
Narendra Patel, who ran the magical Madras Saravana Bhavan years ago with his wife, Sonal, has returned to the same location, serving South Indian specialties like crisp, buttery dosas stuffed with spicy potatoes and housemade paneer in spinach sauce.
BYOB: Dish Dive
Calling this place a restaurant almost feels too pretentious, given the bare walls and hand-ful of seats. Still, locals flock to the spare space, where you can BYO beer and wine and order a spread of affordable small plates that include shakshuka with fried egg, Green Goddess tagliatelle, and pork belly on leek grits.
Buford Highway Newcomer: Masterpiece
Make a beeline up Buford Highway for the sizzle and spice of master chef Liu Ri, whose pocket-sized restaurant blends the beauty of Sichuan and Hunan cooking.
New Asian: Le Fat
So many Asian restaurants have all of the allure of an East German subway station. Hat tip to Guy Wong, who turns out terrific Vietnamese and Chinese plates in a setting bathed in French Colonial grandeur.
New Caribbean: Delight Your Palate, Caribbean Fish and Jerk
There isn’t much in the way of ambience at this shack, where the food is served strictly in Styrofoam to-go boxes. But go for the tangy smoked jerk chicken, which comes with a proper housemade jerk sauce.
New Chocolate Shop: Xocolatl Small Batch Chocolate
Wander around Krog Street Market and it won’t take long for your nostrils to encounter the heavenly work of this craft chocolatier. Bar flavors rotate frequently, but recent favorites included Oh Nuts!, with roasted almonds and vanilla-infused sea salt.
New Bakery: Proof Bakeshop
Inman Park’s newest bakery isn’t just a place to score sweet slices of lemon pound cake, crumbly Linzer cookies, and savory, eggy scones (try the cheddar and chive).
Grocery Store Bakery: Buford Highway Farmers Market
Russians, Croatians, Ukrainians, Mexicans, and Colombians—they all flock here to shop for the breads of their native countries.
OTP Bakery: Alon’s Bakery & Market
Those who shop at Alon Balshan’s submarine of a store in Morningside might be surprised by the scale of his supersized Dunwoody outpost near Perimeter Mall.
New Late-Night Menu: Marcel
There’s no better place to sate your late-night cravings than Ford Fry’s upscale steakhouse on the Westside.
Butcher: Pine Street Market
With one of the friendliest smiles in town, Rusty Bowers doesn’t look like someone who breaks down animal carcasses for a living.
Restaurateur of the Year: Ford Fry
Since last November, Fry has launched four restaurants—including his first in Houston, State of Grace—with another three slated to open by 2016.
Rising Star of the Year: Joe Schafer
This Griffin native made his rounds in local kitchens, from Rainwater to Murphy’s to Parish, before joining Ford Fry in 2013: first as the chef de cuisine at JCT Kitchen and, more recently, behind the wood-burning ovens at King + Duke.
New Farmers Market: Westside Farmers Market
Along a narrow strip of asphalt just behind Perrine’s Wine Shop and Yeah! Burger, this Sunday-only market launched last May, featuring Golda Kombucha, breads from West Egg, and fresh produce from vendors like Cosmos Organic Farm and Honeycreek Mushrooms.
Sunday Dinner: Eat Me Speak Me
From local tomatoes with coffee vinaigrette to wild catfish with oyster mushrooms, you can always count on something quirky and colorful from Jarrett Stieber, who operates this weekend pop-up out of the tiny kitchen of Candler Park’s Gato.
Brunch Buffet: Local Three
This is a buffet with class, where fluffy eggs and biscuits coated in fennel sausage gravy are often served alongside fresh batches of “Rocky Road” pancakes, triangles of lemon custard French toast, and hoppin’ John with braised Heritage Farms Cheshire Pork.
Place to bring the kids (& eat well, too): Novo Cucina
Toys, a self-service wine station, and orders that come out faster than your two-year-old can say “more snacks!” mean Riccardo Ullio’s Italian outpost is about as family-friendly as a restaurant that doesn’t serve corn dogs can get.
Juice Bar: Rawesome Juicery
For a neighborhood that has always been short on healthy food choices, the affordable cold-pressed juices and smoothies at this stripped-down Sweet Auburn Curb Market outlet are a refreshing change of pace.
Tea Shop: Zen Tea
The front room of this Buford Highway treasure is stocked with some of the world’s finest teas. The friendly, knowledgeable employees will gladly steer you to fine pours like matcha green tea, smoky oolong, or a delicate Chinese white tea.
New Coffeehouse: Land of a Thousand Hills Coffee Company
This ITP expansion of the 10-year-old Roswell-based chain is an oasis of calm in the hubbub of Atlantic Station. The slick marble bar and industrial tables can get packed, but the space is full of natural light.
Local Roaster: Cool Beans Coffee Roasters
The Marietta Square coffeehouse stocks a wide array of single-origin beans, from fruity Ethiopian Yirgacheffe to mellow Colombia Supremo Huila.
Wine Shop: Perrine’s
There are plenty of places to find quality wine in Atlanta, but Perrine Prieur is the only shop owner who can claim to have grown up among the grapes that she sells.
Personal Endorsement: Chicken Tacos at La Fonda Latina
La Fonda Latina is not the city’s best Mexican restaurant—or even the second best. But the Westside location is the closest restaurant to my couch.