(pictured clockwise)

Crisp and Clean
Varasano’s Pizzeria
Thin crust from an electric oven at 800 degrees. On the Chica Bella, ricotta and mozzarella tangle with arugula that pops with lemon. 2171 Peachtree Road
The Original Neapolitan
Antico Pizza
A king among pies since 2009. Wood-burning ovens lend char and chew to a doughy crust. On the San Gennaro, savor sweet roasted peppers and spicy sausage. 093 Hemphill Avenue
Neapolitan Part II
Varuni Napoli
The leaner, crispier relative to Antico, with less char but far more charm thanks to owner Luca Varuni. We’re hooked on the roasted mushrooms on the Spacca Napoli. 1540 Monroe Drive
Fried like a True Southerner
Don Antonio by Starita
Deep-fried and finished in a wood-burning oven, the Montanara Starita is hot with smoke and crunch—and the best pie on the menu. 102 West Paces Ferry Road
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This article originally appeared in our December 2014 issue.