There is nothing rustic about this gorgeously renovated Art Deco gas station. Pulled pork and beef brisket can be inconsistent, but the pink, lacquered ribs and creamy barbecued duck are winners.
Baby back ribs hover between tender and taut; thinly sliced brisket retains its juiciness; crisp chicken skin yields to plump, smoky meat; and pulled pork is consistently moist.
The barbecue is delicious and the fixings rock, especially when accompanied by live music. Try the sweet South Carolina-style mustard sauce on a chopped pork sandwich.