Any discussion of Georgia cookbooks begins with Henrietta Stanley Dull’s regional masterwork. An able cook who became the family wage earner when her husband’s health failed, Dull catered and demonstrated gas stoves for Atlanta Gas Light Company before being named the editor of the home economics page for the Atlanta Journal’s Sunday magazine in 1920.
Before Deen’s sparkly blues, pearly whites, and colorful ways with butter brought her national fame on the Food Network, she was known to Georgians as the proprietress of Savannah’s fiercely popular home-cooking restaurant, The Lady & Sons.
If you dine out regularly at Atlanta’s recent crop of ambitious restaurants, Hugh Acheson’s first book, A New Turn in the South, will have special appeal. It’s the first cookbook to capture the essence of the city’s current idiosyncratic approach to Southern food.
Rare is the coffee table cookbook, such as this one, whose pretty pages you also want to splatter in the kitchen. All of Fowler’s books—from Classical Southern Cooking to New Southern Baking—are worth owning, but his most recent effort tightens the focus onto the city where he’s made his home for the past three decades.
If we had to name a Book of the Decade on the subject of Southern cuisine, this would be the one. It is an intimate collaboration between two passionate and masterful cooks who shared a close friendship for almost two decades.
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