Fresh on the Scene: Tea House Formosa, C&S Chowder House, and Nexto

Get the early word on three new Atlanta restaurants
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Tea House Formosa
Tea House Formosa

Photograph by Emily Schultz

Tea House Formosa
China’s strongest tea culture resides in Taiwan, and the Taiwanese owners of this hip new hangout have brought that sophisticated spirit to Buford Highway. Tea House Formosa’s menu offers savory fried fish cakes, rice burgers, taro balls, tea eggs, and sleek wooden bento boxes in addition to the usual desserts and milky bubble teas. Speaking of tea, you’ll find both premium hot brews served in dignified white pots as well as more playful tea floats and iced teas capped with salty butter cream. This place, with its midcentury modern chairs, is both stylish and serious. 5302 Buford Highway, Doraville, 470-349-8105

C&S Chowder House
The third installment in Rich Clark and Jon Schwenk’s mini-empire (after C&S Seafood and Oyster Bar and Hugo’s) offers a small selection of raw oysters, simple seasonal fish, delicious hot or chilled lobster rolls, and more ambitious preparations like “soft-baked” steelhead trout with wasabi pea puree. While it’s a stretch to call a place with $32 entrees a “chowder house,” the three versions of the house specialty—creamy New England style, lighter Rhode Island-style, and tomato-based Manhattan style—are fun to compare. (We remain staunch supporters of the first.) 12040 Etris Road, Roswell, 470-321-5077

Nexto
Concentrics Restaurants used to have a thing for numbers (One Midtown Kitchen, Two Urban Licks, the failed Trois), but this mostly Japanese restaurant overlooking the BeltLine got its name from its location next to Two Urban Licks. Chef Mihoko Obunai is the queen of springy ramen noodles, and though her garnishes include sous-vide duck and rock shrimp, you’re better off sticking to the classic pork belly. Nexto’s beverage program is wickedly fun, with boozy slushies in addition to an edited selection of shochus and sakes. If ramen burgers are your thing, you’ll find one here on the late-night menu. 828 Ralph McGill Boulevard, 404-809-3763

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