Parish Gets a Redoux

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ATL Food Chatter: June 8, 2009
 
If you haven’t been to Parish, the Concentric Group’s New Orleans’ inspired restaurant on Highland Avenue, since it opened last year, you’ll find the kitchen has a different direction these days. In late March, Nick Melvin came on board as the restaurant’s new executive chef and has now almost completely revamped the menu.

New appetizers include Pork and Beans, with huge pickled white beans and bourbon glazed pork belly, and New Orleans “bbq shrimp.” Entrees go both traditional (crawfish pie) and gently experimental: The Mississippi Stuffed Catfish, featuring a tasso and fresh crab stuffing and a lemon Pernod sauce, marries two different dishes into a sophisticated Southern main course. And for the Big Easy Fried Chicken, an “airline chicken breast and wing”—that’s a deboned breast with the wing attached—are marinated overnight in buttermilk, then fried golden and served atop creamed red mule grits with a warm pickled bean salad on the side. [Editor’s note: Sounds like a thoughtful presentation, though I do argue that, for true fried chicken, all bones should always be left in, even in a finer dining environment – B.A.]
 
Have you been to Parish since Melvin took the helm? Leave a comment and tell us about your experience.
 
NEWS and NOTES:
 
Buckhead. As reported by Richard Eldridge of Peach Buzz, Lenox Square Grill, a 300-seat spot serving breakfast, lunch and dinner, will take over the former Clubhouse location at Lenox Square mall this fall. The restaurant will be operated by CentraArchy Restaurant Group, the parent company of New York Prime, Tavern at Phipps, and Joey’s Oakroom.
 
Candler Park. The Mercantile, the fresh food and wine emporium, has finally received its liquor license.

Decatur. Look for Dick Mack’s, an Irish Pub, to go into the space of the recently closed Saba at 111 Sycamore Street this fall. Saba remains open in Emory Village and plans to launch a second location in Oakhurst Village soon.

Downtown. City Grill and Daily’s Restaurant and Bar, two of downtown’s iconic restaurants, closed suddenly last Wednesday. Karen Bremer, president of Great Hospitality Restaurants that owned the two venues, cited “economic conditions.”

Little Five Points. Niramish, serving vegetarian Indian cuisine, is slated to open in the former Calcutta spot at 1138 Euclid Avenue, this month.
 
Midtown. Spanish-themed Cuerno closed last Sunday—it was first announced by owner Richard Ullio on his Facebook page, and covered heavily by the local food media thereafter.

The Repeat Atlanta blog reports that Aurum Restaurant & Bar is slated to open this summer in the Metropolis Condominiums. Owner Mike Hsu, a resident of Metropolis, was inspired by Dolce and Gabbana’s Gold Restaurant in Milan. The menu will include typical bar fare along with sushi, small tapas and sandwiches. [CORRECTION: Per the comment below, Hsu’s new spot is not inspired by Gold in Milan, though D&G’s swanked out web site is still worth a look—B.A.]

Nonna Mia Cafe and Pizzeria, serving casual Italian fare, has opened in the former home of Sweet Devil Moon (and several restaurants before that — anyone remember Balance?) on Piedmont Avenue.

Old 4th Ward. 4th & Swift celebrates its first anniversary with a special four-course prix fixe menu on Saturday, June 27th. They also have a new pastry chef, Lindsey Peluso, whose resume includes a stint at Bacchanalia.

Roswell. Little Alley Tapas Bar and Restaurant has closed.
 
Southwest Atlanta. Look for KC BBQ Pit to open their second location in the former Up the Creek Seafood spot at 3752 Cascade Road this summer.

Question of the Week: What intown chef (mentioned in this blog post) has his son working alongside him at his hot spot?
 
PS. The answer to last week’s QOTW—What owner-operator who formerly owned some of Atlanta’s classics of the 70’s and 80’s is rumored to opening a new bar concept in the White provisions development—is Warren Bruno, he of Aunt Charley’s, The Mansion, and The Abbey fame.

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