For the next chapter of the Old Fourth Ward’s continuing culinary makeover, brothers Hugh and Jason Connerty—alums of Antico Pizza Napoletana—took over a handsome brick building, installing tiled wood-fired pizza ovens behind glass and a dining room lined with a mix of reclaimed woods. (The restaurant also offers plenty of parking, a rarity for the neighborhood.)

The pizzas, charred on the bottom and with the proper swollen edges, are sized for sharing at sixteen inches. Home in on classic combinations like the Bolognese, crowned with meatballs, sausage, housemade mozzarella, and ricotta. You typically order at a front counter, though after finding a table we’ve also requested food from servers, who will fetch draft beer, wine, or cocktails from the back-wall bar but leave you to retrieve your own plates, glasses, and condiments.