Au Rendez-Vous

This tiny French bistro at the edge of Brookhaven is still as modest and authentic as the day it opened seven years ago. The owners, a French Vietnamese chef and his wife, have seduced the community with everyday French fare such as garlicky escargots, stuffed mussels, poulet cocotte, and homemade chocolate fondant. Fresh soups and salads come with the entrees, and although a meal is no longer an astonishing bargain, there is no doubt Jean-Claude and Juliette Changivy run the best Gallic restaurant for the money. The decor could stand some improvement, but hey, nobody wants the prices to go up even more. (Cash or check only.)