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The ironic juxtaposition of Floataway—food that celebrates the farm, served in the belly of a clandestine industrial complex—helps it stay thrilling after thirteen years. Even the drinks roll with the seasons: Prosecco with pureed strawberries in the spring gives way to a martini infused with tomato in the summer. For maximum gratification, go heavy on the starters (pristine vegetables and fruits in salads and artful small plates), share a pizza or pasta, and consider bypassing an entree altogether. That way you’ll have room for the glorious cheese plate and desserts like a sultry blueberry–brown butter tart.