With dozens of restaurants north of I-285 offering Korean barbecue, local foodies have become savvy consumers of marinated and grilled meats. Gobawoo, an obscure spot near an Enterprise outpost and a La Quinta Inn, takes a novel approach to its signature offering: It uses thick glass trays set on portable burners to achieve impressive caramelization on sliced short ribs, pork sirloin, and pork belly (the best choices among many selections). Pair the barbecue with other Korean dishes, including hand-chopped beef tartare with sesame oil, egg yolk, and Asian pear; bubbly seafood stews; and savory pancakes. The atmosphere resembles an otherworldly speakeasy, with wooden booths surrounded by tall walls and short curtains for semiprivacy. Try the makgeolli (a refreshing milky-white carbonated rice wine sipped from ceramic bowls) rather than beer or soju.