Mi Cocina

This fall two growing chains, Del Frisco’s Grille and Mi Cocina, arrived from Dallas—a city that possesses a culinary temperament similar to Atlanta’s. Both will support creative, enterprising chefs, but corporate restaurants can also flourish if they land on the right angle. Between the two newcomers, our restaurant critic will spend his money at Mi Cocina. Its decor resembles a high-end hotel lobby—white leather seats and booths, sensible brown carpet, soaring windows—but at its core the place is an affordable Tex-Mex joint. Skip missteps like bacon-wrapped shrimp stuffed with Jack cheese and jalapeños. Instead, home in on gut-busting grub like the Deluxe 57: Two tacos and three enchiladas anchor the gloppy feast. Note the beef enchilada topped with a yellow gloss that includes Velveeta, a learn-to-love-it staple of Tex-Mex cooking.