Restaurants

Tomatillos

Any attempt to bring ambitious, reasonably priced food to East Atlanta should theoretically be lauded. Yet despite the snazzy renovation of an old bank building and the familiar-looking menu—an homage to gone-but-not-forgotten Tortilla’s, where owner Eric Kayser worked in his youth—Tomatillos is an ill-conceived anachronism of a burrito joint. Pale quesadillas, doughy burritos, and double-wrapped tacos can all be stuffed with green chile, pinto beans, pulled pork, or chicken breast. Options for customizing your meal include avocado, roasted poblanos, potatoes, and cilantro. Only the sharp, bright green tomatillo sauce calls to mind Tortilla’s glory days.