West and Mill Bistro Bar

Swit, a bakery-cafe in Westside, opened in March but didn’t immediately find an audience. Owner Diana Stawnyczy quickly regrouped, giving the business a more generic name, extending the hours to dinner, and moving from baked goods to bistro fare that cannily mixes in Eastern and Western European ideas.

Small plates delight: Look for pan-fried farm squashes with romesco, a sauce of peppers and hazelnuts; fried cabbage wedge in lacy batter with feta and honey; and homemade pierogies with chive sour cream—a nod to Stawnyczy’s Ukrainian background.

Entrees (steak frites, scallops and green beans on butternut squash puree) prove less interesting, as does a ho-hum lunch at which croque monsieurs and croque madames (topped with a fried egg) are the most inspired choices. In the chilly weather, the big fireplace between two long banquettes will beckon.