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Gravy Two Ways

Here are two techniques for making gravy (with a roux or with a slurry), and each has its staunch defenders. If the gravy is cooked long enough without being allowed to burn, both methods create a rich and delicious gravy without any residual taste of uncooked flour.

A fundraiser picnic by Anne Quatrano

Anne Quatrano, the chef and restaurateur behind Bacchanalia, Floataway Café, Star Provisions, and Abattoir, will be creating traditional Southern picnic dishes for a Nickel Bottom Community Garden fundraiser on May 19. The event, called BUDS, will take place from 1 p.m. to 3 p.m. behind Floataway Café and include bocce, cornhole, live music, a raffle, a wildlife release, and of course, food prepared by Quatrano and Floataway executive chef Todd Immel.

Cardamom Hill, Bacchanalia, and Ford Fry Among James Beard Foundation Awards Semifinalists

The semifinalists for the James Beard Foundation Awards were announced today, and 12 Georgia chefs and restaurants made the cut! Perhaps the most prestigious honor in the culinary industry, the James Beard Awards celebrate restaurateurs, chefs, pastry chefs, bars, and restaurants around the country for outstanding service, food, and beverage programs. Local semifinalists include Cardamom Hill—which was named one of Bon Appetit's 2012 Best New Restaurants in America—for Best New Restaurant, and Bacchanalia's Anne Quatrano for Outstanding Chef.

The 2013 Atlanta Food & Wine Festival to feature Anne Quatrano, Linton Hopkins, Kevin Rathbun, and more

Now in its third year, our city's most ambitious culinary event, the Atlanta Food & Wine Festival (AFWF) will be held May 30 through June 2. Ticket pre-sales begin tomorrow.

Bacchanalia shows ambition with a shift to five-course format

I talked with Anne Quatrano last evening, just as service was beginning at Bacchanalia, about her decision to switch the restaurant’s prix fixe menu format from four courses to five. The change went into effect this past Monday, and the price remains the same: $85 per person. Quatrano said the change was largely made to keep Bacchanalia competitive as the best restaurant in the city. “We don’t want to be first with a close second,” she said, referencing both the review I gave in our Top 50 restaurants story in the magazine’s current August issue and John Kessler’s recent review. My piece in part said, “Being a leader bears responsibility. Bacchanalia does indeed offer the city’s most memorable dining experience, but the kitchen needs to push itself beyond the safe zone into which it’s recently fallen…Our luminary restaurant needs to drive the culinary conversation for those of us looking to be surprised, intrigued, and educated.”

Floataway Cafe

Restaurants in Atlanta have a knack for latching onto trends and clutching them furiously--much longer than in other cities--until the vitality completely withers. So many tapas palaces opened last decade that I can still barely face a martini glass brimming with ceviche without wanting to replace it with straight gin. I’m beginning to have a similar reaction to Neapolitan pizza.

Anne Quatrano discusses forthcoming Sunday Supper South event

ATL Food Chatter: October 4, 2010 (To receive the Chatter and other culinary tidbits directly in your inbox, sign up for our weekly dining newsletter)On Sunday, October 31, Anne Quatrano and Clifford Harrison will host Sunday Supper South at Westside Provision, a charity dinner featuring a Who’s Who of Southern chefs (check out the list of names on the website). Modeled after the successful Sunday Supper event held in New York’s Chelsea Marketplace, the dinner raises funds for the James Beard Foundation and the James Beard Foundation Scholarship Program. In an email Q&A, Anne Quatrano gave us a quick rundown of the event details:

Bacchanalia

A server at Bacchanalia set down an orb of crabmeat bound in a bronzed coating of breadcrumbs, arranged over splayed avocado slices, and stippled with orange and grapefruit sections. Vanilla beans speckled a shallow pool of vinaigrette at the bottom of the bowl; the maternal warmth of their aroma and flavor calmed the precocious jolts of Thai pepper essence that bounced among the ingredients. Every sweet, hot, mellow, and tingly nuance harmonized with the crab. The effect of the dish was akin to the reprieve after an evening thunderstorm that dissipates the Atlanta summer heat. My heart felt lighter afterward.

Quinones at Bacchanalia

I walked into Quinones at Bacchanalia, glanced around, and realized I was the only fellow wearing a suit. This surprised me. After all, Quinones is the most formal restaurant experience left in Atlanta. Situated on the lower level of the Westside complex that houses Bacchanalia and Star Provisions, the hushed Southern Gothic dining room holds only eleven tables. It serves a nine-course set menu (no choices, but it changes weekly and includes several bonus noshes) that costs $125 per person—$195 if you opt for wine pairings with seven of the dishes. It is a restaurant engineered for lavishness. Why not dress for the occasion?

Abattoir

To Anglo ears, the word "abattoir" has an almost spiritual chime. Without knowing its meaning, one might guess that it refers to a labyrinth of monastic cloisters, or the dwelling of a particularly devout ascetic. But it’s French for "slaughterhouse," the term being derived from the verb abattre, meaning to shoot, knock down, or demoralize. Abattoir is one of the least onomatopoeic words ever adapted into the English language.

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