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Expense Account Meal: Bone’s

Since 1979, Buckhead suits have filed into our city’s oldest steakhouse for deftly seared rib-eyes, polished waiters in starched whites, and a 20,000-bottle wine list that even has a magnum of the cult wine Screaming Eagle.

Bone’s

Buckhead’s thirty-three-year-old steakhouse has, no contest, the most thrilling restaurant cellar in town. It’s not just the rotating 1,350-bottle selection, or the iPads on which you can peruse the ratings of the fruit-bomb Cabs you’re considering.

Bone’s

I left Atlanta for a few years in early 2006. A week before my departure, another food critic in town reached out and said, "Let me treat you to dinner. Name the place."I had already splurged on farewell meals at Seeger’s, Joël, Soto, and the Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton, Buckhead—not because of any prescient notions that Guenter Seeger, Joël Antunes, and Sotohiro Kosugi would soon leave the city, or that the Dining Room would close not long after I returned in 2009. I just knew how much I’d miss the marvels those restaurants served. So for this final dinner, I wanted an institution that honored Atlanta’s Southern marrow but also fed off its appetite for prestige and success. "Let’s go to Bone’s," I said.

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