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Every week, we give you a calendar of upcoming dining events to help you navigate the week’s culinary festivities. Since next week’s calendar will be dedicated to Valentine’s Day, this week we’re giving you a peek at the coming two weeks in food, including where to go for Super Bowl Sunday. Monday, February 1 INC. STREET FOOD OPENS Roswell’s IN
I have, over years of searching for transcendent pizza, developed a quirky progression when I tackle a whole pie. I always begin by ripping off a substantial crescent from the pizza’s brim the moment it arrives. The crust’s appearance and flavor, unadulterated by other ingredients, tell its own complete story.
Among the forty-four dishes listed on an April menu at Restaurant Eugene, my eyes came to rest on a description that roused my curiosity: "Roasted shad roe, onion puree, lime pickle butter.” An uninitiated tablemate cocked his head quizzically when this plate arrived at the table. No way around it: Shad roe is one of nature’s uglier handiworks. A lobe of tiny eggs from the notoriously bony shad fish that runs briefly through the mid-Atlantic rivers in spring, the roe looks like a bloody horror-flick prop when raw and turns an unappealing gray when cooked. Yet this fleeting prize is sublime in flavor, offering a mild but hardscrabble pungency that suggests freezing water, upstream struggle, and the funkier nuances of caviar. Matching it with lime pickle butter tamed its feral qualities and evoked two distinct cuisines: Pickles are a staple in the South, but the triple hit of brine, heat, and citrus tasted undeniably of an Indian condiment. What an ingenious collaboration.
On a warm Friday at midnight, Pharr Road and East Paces Ferry remain in perpetual motion. Uphill, downhill, around and around, a stream of pedestrians swarms against a backdrop of neon and headlights and music.