Its mystique endures at the restaurant’s new south Buckhead location, at the base of the Brookwood Condominium building. But don’t expect nostalgic allusions to the old spot. The move is part of a deliberate reboot of the Watershed brand.
Luxury dining is a given in Buckhead, where you can't throw a Bentley hood ornament without hitting an expense-account steakhouse, a mall or hotel that houses white-tablecloth heavyweights, or one of Pano Karatassos's 1990s holdouts still serving Southwestern Caesars or seafood Newburg (looking at you, Nava and Atlanta Fish Market).
But what about quality midscale options—the casual haunts that won't decimate your credit line, where you can linger
The first time I visited the recently relocated Tomo, I waited in a valet line full of luxury sedans, gave the reservation name to a statuesque hostess in a slinky dress, and stared, slack-jawed, into the dining room’s shimmery vastness. And then, dwelling on the jarring contrast between this reinvention and the humble, intimate, sadly defunct original on the other side of town, I thought: They’ve ruined this restaurant.