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Sometimes I feel like a walking, talking French cliche. Pessimist? Check. Contrarian? Check. Obsessed with cheese? Check! I can’t remember a time when I didn’t eat cheese, and while I would rather die than drink a sip of milk, I have internalized the sentiment of immortal epicurean Brillat-Savarin that “a meal without cheese is like a beautiful woman with only one eye.”
ATL Food Chatter: September 27, 2010 (To receive the Chatter and other culinary tidbits directly in your inbox, sign up for our weekly dining newsletter) A partnership between Murray’s, arguably the best-known cheese shop in the country, and Kroger grocery stores has come to Atlanta. Several Murray’s outlets have already opened in Kroger stores in metro Atlanta, with at least three more locations (including one in Ansley Mall in October) opening throughout the area by year’s end.
“Hmm, this tastes like medical supplies.”You never quite know with food writers, but a fellow journalist made this comment the other night when we tasted Torta La Serena at a restaurant, and I think she meant the remark to convey something between admiration and skepticism. La Serena is distinctive, no doubt—but I’m partial to its distinctiveness.
Forsterkase may be the most undeserving underdog of the cheese world: I’ve no idea why it’s not better known. An aged raw milk’s cow made in Switzerland’s Toggenburg valley, northeast of Zurich, it oozes when ripe and room temperature and it gives good funk without over-assaulting the senses. A spruce bark band encircles the cheese (an ancient technique used before plastic became the standard aging container), which is washed with brine as it matures. Of course the bark gives the cheese a bit of a woodsy character, but it also can taste beefy and pleasantly salty, and even a bit smoky and fruity. The cheese at the edge of the rind even takes on a piny sweetness.
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