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Petillant-naturel (“pét-nats”) is a funky, hazy, sparkling natural wine with ancient roots, a modern-day buzz, and a wildly broad spectrum of flavor profiles. They're creating interest in Atlanta with Joshua Fryer of 8Arm and Ink, Juan Cortes of Stems, Seeds and Everythang, and Sarah Pierre of 3 Parks Wine Shop.
I can probably name 15 Atlanta bartenders who can create and pour artisanal cocktails worth drinking. But no more. Plus: The restaurant you should recommend to your out-of-town friends seeking Southern fare is Kevin Gillespie’s Revival.
I worry the classic Manhattan is going the way of the martini: another opportunity for barkeeps to futz around with annoying techniques and show-offish ingredients. Plus: In previous decades, chefs had to be Japanese if they wanted customers to take their sushi seriously. They had to be born in Spain to attempt paella. This attitude seems quaint in an era when scholarly approach trumps birthright.