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I worry the classic Manhattan is going the way of the martini: another opportunity for barkeeps to futz around with annoying techniques and show-offish ingredients. Plus: In previous decades, chefs had to be Japanese if they wanted customers to take their sushi seriously. They had to be born in Spain to attempt paella. This attitude seems quaint in an era when scholarly approach trumps birthright.
No other cocktail list this year felt as intentional yet whimsical as the one that Just built at this late-night Lebanese restaurant in the Old Fourth Ward.