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Atlanta is a city that looks outward far more than inward, or even nearby. Outward, say, to the Lower East Side (the General Muir’s pastrami), or to China (Gu’s Dumplings), or to France (Bread & Butterfly’s tender, airy omelets). With the glorious exception of Ryan Smith at Staplehouse, I didn’t find a posse of young, or youngish, chefs all cooking as much for each other as for the public. The priority in Atlanta is less innovation based on local ingredients, as at Staplehouse, than finding a formula that works and then pumping out food to fit it. This makes for generous, untweezed food. But it also means food that, once successful, can become rote.
The bun on that famous H&F cheeseburger? The bread for that banner cheesesteak at Fred's Meat & Bread? You can thank Rob Alexander for both—and a whole lot more.
The culinary equivalent of a first impression, a restaurant’s name is the quickest way to stand out from the competition. Can you figure out what could have been for these 8 Atlanta restaurants?
The best steak we tasted all year was this dry-aged, bone-in ribeye weighing in at a heart-stopping 2.2 pounds. Served with a Tempranillo bordelaise sauce, the hunk arrives with a crusty, smoky sear and meat so velvety that it might as well be custard.
Take a peek inside Cooks & Soldiers' Friday night experiments, where one cook is charged with creating a dish to serve to rest of the staff:
The best baklava comes from a shop famous around Atlanta for its pita, Leon International Foods. And a restaurant's food may be highly complex, but that doesn't mean its name needs to be.
The family behind the Iberian Pig, Double Zero Napoletana, and Sugo takes its latest inspiration from Spain’s Basque region, a province that practically breathes pinxtos (Basque for “tapas”) and glasses of Txakoli. At the corner of 14th and Howell Mill Road, this is easily the Castelluccis’ most rave-worthy effort.
When it rains, it pours. Not only are a host of stalls set to open next week at Krog Street Market, but also Fred Castellucci's Cooks & Soldiers will be opening Monday on the Westside at the corner of 14th and Howell Mill. Both venues had hoped to open earlier this year in the spring