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As obvious as the physical transformation of Atlanta’s restaurant scene has been, an underground dining revolution is also underway. The latter—waged by chefs hosting pop-up “restaurants” and dinner series, as well as entrepreneurs offering incubating spaces—isn’t as easy to observe as the former. But it’s similarly impressive. In many ways, it’s more impressive.
I hate hovering servers, but I also don’t want to be completely ignored. One easy way to negotiate the right level of service is the buzzer common in Korean restaurants. Picture a red button mounted next to your table. Push it, and a server materializes, ready to turn down the flame below your sizzling meat, refill your kimchi bowl, or bring you more barley tea.
If your table’s “fresh-picked” centerpiece was actually picked two weeks ago in, say, South America, then flown or driven thousands of miles to its final destination, it subtracts from the flowers’ lifespan. Local flowers often last longer, which ultimately cuts down on cost.
After Jarrett Stieber launched his beloved pop-up Eat Me Speak Me at Gato in 2014, many considered him Atlanta’s unofficial pop-up king. Stieber recently moved Eat Me Speak Me to S.O.S Tiki Bar in Decatur, and the new incarnation is more restaurant than pop-up, according to the chef.
Although prized most for their crunchy texture and peppery bite when raw, radishes become earthy and mellow—more like their cousin, the turnip—when cooked. Eat Me Speak Me chef Jarrett Stieber shares his techniques for both.
In cities like New York and Los Angeles, I’ve found municipal water is great right out of the tap. But in Atlanta? I can’t stand the foul flavor of our water, which restaurants often pour straight over a fistful of ice cubes.
Eat Me Speak Me's Jarrett Stieber talks about hockey, culinary school, and why his dog is more famous than he is.
Alpaca, it’s what’s for dinner: Atlanta restaurants serve up alternatives to the usual beef and chicken
Historically speaking, the Southern meat-and-two has called for beef, pork, or chicken. Today kitchens are showing interest in other animals. I spoke with four chefs who know their way around the hottest cuts.
It's been a good year for Jarrett Stieber, who launched his Eat Me Speak Me pop-up at Candler Park Market last fall. Stieber has spent the last few months cooking up lunch at the General Muir and dinner at Gato Bizco, but as with all roving chefs, nothing is ever permanent. His lunch pop-up at the General Muir will end next Friday (June 13), and he'll soon be spending two nights a week at Gato.
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