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Kimio Fukuya holds court most nights at Bishoku, the new Japanese restaurant started by his vivacious daughter, Jackie. Fukuya retired two years ago after selling his seminal restaurant Sushi Huku, a popular Japanese expat hangout known for its Osaka-style specialties. But his former sushi chef, Mickey-san, migrated to Bishoku, and many of his old drinking buddies join him for rounds of sake and hearty food in a dining room the exact color of green tea.