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Lunch at Miller Union

Hmm…whom did I lunch with today?Miller Union opened for the noontime meal two weeks ago. I think there’ll soon be some friendly rivalry between it and Bocado over who snags the sophisticated Westside lunch bunch (hopefully folks will toggle between them; they’re both great).

Miller Union

The braised rabbit at Miller Union looks homely, as many of the South's finest dishes do. Shredded meat, sauteed mushrooms, russet-colored gravy, and a moat of grits make for an unglamorous collage of earth tones. But, oh, the taste. Bite after bite, this entree reminds me of Nat King Cole’s voice: velvety, soothing, timeless. The rabbit is cooked for two hours with carrots, celery, and fennel in chicken stock and red wine before being pulled from the bone—a step that helps squeamish eaters disassociate their meal from the cuteness of bunnies. No fancy seasonings mar the Logan Turnpike grits from North Georgia. They are simmered in water and milk and finished with salt, pepper, cream, and butter. The mushrooms add pleasant murkiness, and the braising liquid, acting as gravy, curtails the richness. This is food in high definition, a vivid sequence of flavors that reflects the agrarian roots and ingenuity of our region’s cooking.

Mmm, Miller Union’s menu looks mighty good

Tonight is Miller Union’s third night open to the public. The westside partnership of executive chef Steven Satterfield (long of Watershed, pictured right) and general manager Neal McCarthy (long of Sotto Sotto) is one of the restaurants I’ve most anticipated opening this year. Satterfield has a simple, clean take on American/Southern cooking, and the space, a sly twining of rustic and modern, looks like a beautiful place to spend the evening.

An update on much-anticipated Miller Union

ATL Food Chatter: August 3, 2009 (To receive the Chatter and other culinary tidbits directly in your inbox, sign up for our weekly dining newsletter)Ever since John Kessler’s scoop announcement in spring that two highly regarded Atlanta restaurant stalwarts—Steven Satterfield, executive sous chef of Watershed and Sotto Sotto general manager Neal McCarthy—were teaming up to open a westside venture to be called Miller Union, anticipation has been building throughout Atlanta’s food community. Here a few additional morsels from the two owners to nibble on until this fall’s planned opening.

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