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One Eared Stag’s Robert Phalen is opening a new restaurant in East Lake this summer. Called Mary Hoopa’s House of Fried Chicken & Oysters, it will be a casual Southern spot inspired by the former cook and nanny of Phalen’s mother-in-law, whose fried chicken recipe Phalen adopted.
I can get over menu misspellings and pretentious cliches, but what’s starting to irk me are the restaurants that distribute separate sheets for everything. Plus, finally, Southern oysters are finally getting recognized as the pearls they are.
Here, oysters Rockefeller, cheese soufflé, and New York strip with bordelaise are made with such close attention to sourcing and with such careful, uncluttered technique that you start to pine for the days when food like this was served nightly by old-line clubs.
CABBAGE KEYPineland, FloridaAccessible only by boat, this eighty-acre, palm-lined island is home to an irresistible 1930s open-air tavern. Enjoy peeling fresh shrimp and cracking stone crab claws as gopher tortoises mosey past. Don’t miss...
At Kimball House, co-owner Bryan Rackley gives an English major’s attention to the descriptions he writes for the oyster menu. Rackley is also just as obsessive about how these briny beauties are presented. Novices need not be afraid to shuck oysters at home if they follow some simple guidelines.
It’s a smokehouse that smokes its own ribs, brisket, and pork. That part I get: Much of what’s smoked is good, and some of it’s memorable. But it’s also a raw bar with a daily selection of oysters, hamachi crudo, smoked salmon, smoked trout spread, and yellowfin with ponzu gelée.
I slurped my first oyster while standing in brackish water on the lower coast of Brittany. The sensation filled me with wonder. I had eaten something that was still alive—something pure and oddly fleshy trapped in a bracing sip of seawater.