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Shell yeah! Hot restaurants crack open the world of raw oysters

I slurped my first oyster while standing in brackish water on the lower coast of Brittany. The sensation filled me with wonder. I had eaten something that was still alive—something pure and oddly fleshy trapped in a bracing sip of seawater.

Kimball House

Kimball House, Decatur’s buzziest new restaurant, doesn’t take reservations. In most places, such a policy leads to a wait about as pleasurable as the midnight drive-through line at Zesto’s.

Louis’s Brown Oyster Stew with Benne Seeds

From "The Food, Folklore, and Art of Lowcountry Cooking" by Joseph E. Dabney. For this traditional Lowcountry stew, I am indebted to the prize-winning Chef Louis Osteen of Charleston, Pawleys Island, and Captiva Island, Florida fame (and now at Lake Rabun Hotel northeast of Atlanta). He says this is one of his most popular winter soups.

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