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Few chefs have had as big an influence on the way I eat as David Sweeney. His innovative Edgewood Avenue restaurant, Dynamic Dish, may have lasted a scant three years—from 2007 to 2010—but it earned a place in the city’s pantheon of meaningful dining experiences.
These days chefs are fans of fermentation, and I'm addicted to the natural fizziness of nonalcoholic fermented drinks such as doogh and Turkish ayran. But I've been cooking quinoa since the 1970s. And I don’t know what is going on in restaurant kitchens, but lately I have eaten more than enough hard quinoa, soggy quinoa, and smothered quinoa.