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Southern Kosher

You have asked me, as a Southern writer, to produce a short personal essay on my Southern identity. I cannot do it.

Look Homeward, Atlanta

I grew up not far from Maryland’s Eastern Shore, where the South begins, feasting on crabs and oysters from the Chesapeake Bay estuaries. My father is a politician, and each summer my family traveled to a different state for the annual Southern Legislative Conference. I inhaled New Orleans beignets in a swirl of powdered sugar. I learned that North Carolinians eat tangy pork barbecue and that Texans prefer beef brisket. In 1995 I moved to Atlanta, excited to taste the city’s singular brand of Southern cooking.

Twelve Places

We called her grandmother. Never Grandma or Granny. To my father, she was simply Mother. Mom, if he was mad. My uncle sometimes called her The Nazi, but never to her face.

Your Southern Decoder

When Mitt Romney dropped a “bless his heart” on Barack Obama during a stump speech in Iowa, Southerners pricked up their ears like hunting dogs and commenced interpreting for anyone who might have missed the passive-aggressive implications.

Derivation of Dirty South

“What chu know about the Dirty South?” Aside from being a track and infectious refrain on Goodie Mob’s 1995 debut "Soul Food," the term has devolved in spelling (Durty Souf?) and evolved wildly in connotation.

Carvel Grant Gould’s She-Crab Soup with Hot Butter Crackers

Carvel Grant Gould grew up immersed in Buckhead's food world. No baby shower or Christmas party was complete without platters of cheese straws and chocolate eclairs from Henri's Bakery.

Is There an Atlanta Accent?

Newcomers to the city who expect to hear Hollywood’s idea of the Southern drawl will be disappointed.

How Southern Are We?

What does it mean to “be Southern”? An entire academic subculture is devoted to “Southern Identity,” but even its scholars haven’t reached consensus.

Linton Hopkins’s Southern Greens

Linton Hopkins is a proselytizer of Southern produce. He details differences in heirloom varieties to customers in his restaurants, dotes over the stands at the Peachtree Road Farmers Market, and ships the seasonal bounty for fundraiser feasts around the country.

Darryl Evans’s Fried Chicken over Cracklin’ Cornmeal Waffles

Darryl Evans's career took shape in the era when fusion was hot, mixing Southern cooking with global flavors in dishes such as whole, sizzling Asian-style catfish or ravioli stuffed with goat cheese and Georgia caviar.

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