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Craft Izakaya

Japanese menus can be hard to navigate. If you haven’t sufficiently committed to memory the looks and tastes of different nigiri and sushi offerings, you might resort to the cowardly California roll. Craft Izakaya is here to help take some of the mystery out of ordering.

The Pig & the Pearl

It’s a smokehouse that smokes its own ribs, brisket, and pork. That part I get: Much of what’s smoked is good, and some of it’s memorable. But it’s also a raw bar with a daily selection of oysters, hamachi crudo, smoked salmon, smoked trout spread, and yellowfin with ponzu gelée.

Sushi Huku

A friend and I were sitting at the bar at Sushi Huku—an unassuming Japanese restaurant off Powers Ferry Road near the northern intersection of I-75 and I-285—savoring the omakase, a word that roughly translates as “leave it to the chef.” Owner Jerome Oh, who introduces himself to customers as “Jey,” began our meal with an appetizer plate of three exquisite bites.


The first time I visited the recently relocated Tomo, I waited in a valet line full of luxury sedans, gave the reservation name to a statuesque hostess in a slinky dress, and stared, slack-jawed, into the dining room’s shimmery vastness. And then, dwelling on the jarring contrast between this reinvention and the humble, intimate, sadly defunct original on the other side of town, I thought: They’ve ruined this restaurant.

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