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What I craved most after leaving Miami was the perfect bandeja paisa—the national dish of my parents’ native Colombia. Eventually, I found Las Delicias de la Abuela on Buford Highway. Every bite of the bandeja paisa was like turning a page in a book that took me home.
In this age of fancified food halls and cheffy fast-casual concepts, the ignoble strip mall has new competition—which makes now a good time to remind ourselves that some of Atlanta's most enduring and endearing restaurants call the strip mall home.