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Jeff Varasano, the owner of Varasano’s Pizzeria, didn’t believe that a veggie pizza could stand up to next the Neapolitan classics on his menu. But when he wanted to open a franchise in Hartsfield-Jackson, he was contractually obligated to offer one.
I have, over years of searching for transcendent pizza, developed a quirky progression when I tackle a whole pie. I always begin by ripping off a substantial crescent from the pizza’s brim the moment it arrives. The crust’s appearance and flavor, unadulterated by other ingredients, tell its own complete story.