Haven’s habitat, in a pioneering multiuse development that still feels like a microcosm of the good life, turned out to be an excellent business decision for Buckhead Life Group veteran Michael Arnette. The lofty decor hasn’t aged a bit, with the same faucet sconces dripping blobs of light over a flossy dining room with a floor-to-ceiling wine library and an open kitchen.

Plunk yourself at the bar and order the truffled hay, an unconscionably large pile of thin potato shreds that, at $5 and probably a zillion calories, is the one great bargain on a menu where scallops with English-pea-and-ham whipped potatoes or a special of veal hanger steak run from $22 to $33. A bowl of Blue Hill Bay mussels steamed with smoked tomato and chipotle is served with grilled sourdough bread from H&F Bread Co. Sea Island peas, Anson Mills rice grits, and Jonah crab cakes with she-crab soup give a regional flair to the menu. But if you want to diversify, you can also order pasta from Valenza, Arnette’s Italian concept next door.