Located inside the opulent St. Regis Hotel, Atlas is as much a museum as it is a place to eat: The space is adorned with a rotating roster of art on loan from a $1 billion private collection. Yes, that’s a Matisse, a van Gogh, a Picasso. The room itself is magnificent and hushed, a cathedral worthy of the works of art on the walls and on the plate. Chef Christopher Grossman previously worked at the French Laundry, and most of his food is simultaneously light (in an ethereal way) and decadent (given his deft use of luxe ingredients). Pillowy mushroom agnolotti is made heavenly with foie gras-enhanced jus and Australian black truffles, and an entree of hot smoked trout with potato mousse, green apples, and celery threads is elevated by a genius stroke of smoked caviar cream.

Whether the date night in question is prom, an anniversary, an engagement, or some less monumental event, Aria is up to the occasion. The pewter-walled room is dim and columned and draped, a modern evocation of ancient Rome. The food similarly updates the classics. Perhaps you’ve had your fill of beet salads, but you haven’t had a beet salad until you’ve had this one; with gold and ruby-red wedges mingling with candied walnuts atop thick, lemony yogurt, the dish is exceptional in its simplicity. Plates are adorned with drops and loops and smears of sauces, and even if that’s not typically your thing, you’ll still be wowed by Aria’s artistry—particularly when the plate holds caramelized scallops with perfect piles of sunchoke, Brussels, and rutabaga. The kind of romance Aria delivers never goes out of style.