For Atlantans who complain about the lack of quality Italian food in the city, this Brookhaven sleeper deserves attention—particularly in cooler weather, when robust pastas such as pappardelle tangled in a ragù of pork, beef, and veal appeal most mightily (orecchiette with rapini and sausage and the garganelli carbonara are other standouts).

Like its sibling, Haven, a couple of doors down, Valenza doesn’t innovate, but it radiates neighborhood restaurant warmth. This isn’t listed on the menu, but the kitchen will do half portions of the pasta. Settle the stomach after such a feast with espresso laced with Fernet Branca, an Italian digestif.