Photograph courtesy of floridahistoriccoast.com
Old World charm thrives in St. Augustine, Florida, proudly 459 years old and a mecca for architecture lovers. This coastal town not far from Jacksonville doesn’t feel like a typical beach destination, thanks to its Spanish Revival buildings, brick-paved streets, and historic attractions.
First, a little condensed history: Spanish explorers—most notably, Juan Ponce de Leon—sailed into the area in the 1500s, and the town itself was founded in 1565. Before Jamestown and Plymouth Rock, St. Augustine became the first continuously occupied settlement of European-Americans and African-Americans in the U.S.
Examples of these early occupants are still available to see: Aviles Street is considered the oldest street in the nation (archaeologists have found pottery shards dating to the 1600s beneath the brick streets), and it’s where to find Ximenez-Fatio House Museum and the Spanish Military Hospital Museum. Of course, as in many old cities, its history was never straight-forward—and neither is the architecture. St. Augustine became a British city in the 1760s, then went back to Spanish rule a few decades later, so some buildings and homes reflect a mix of European styles. Florida eventually became part of America and gained statehood in 1845.
The Gilded Age is what defined the city’s architecture. A revival of Spanish and Moroccan styles flourished in St. Augustine after the Civil War years, when railroads and the concept of vacations became a thing. Industrialist Henry Flagler convinced his influential friends to make St. Augustine a destination, and soon the city was dotted with fascinating buildings influenced by Spain—with a bit of American flair thrown in. Red-clay terra cotta, rotundas, ironwork, stucco facades, and ornate décor help distinguished these late-19th-century buildings, landscaped with palm trees and fanciful gardens. “This look is almost ‘fantasy architecture’—exotic and tropical—and it helped reinforce that Florida is a fantasy to visit,” says Dr. Leslee Keys, former professor and director of historic preservation at Flagler College.
Photograph courtesy of floridahistoriccoast.com
Where To See It All
Lightner Museum
This iconic Spanish Renaissance Revival building—once the Gilded Age resort Alcazar Hotel—dates to 1888. Today it’s a magnificent museum dedicated to fine and decorative art and collections of Americana, many of it from Chicago Publisher Otto Lightner’s personal collection. But the museum also shows vestiges of its hotel days, with Turkish and Russian steam baths, and the world’s largest swimming pool, which is now Café Alcazar (great for lunch).
Flagler College
The former Ponce de Leon Hotel—once considered the most luxurious hotel in the world, according to Dr. Keys—is now home to Flagler College, and a love letter to both terra cotta and Tiffany stained-glass. Walking tours of this national historic landmark are a must while visiting.
Villa Zorayda Museum
This Moorish-style building was originally a private home built in 1883, based on the Alhambra Palace in Granada, Spain. Today it’s a museum full of exotic collections from around the world, as well as photos detailing the history of this family-owned structure.
The Oldest House Museum
Built in the 1600s, the Gonzalez-Alvarez house is Florida’s oldest surviving Spanish Colonial dwelling, and also home to the St. Augustine Historical Society. Daily tours include a history museum and information about the area.
Where To Stay
Casa Monica Resort
This downtown historic hotel began life as the Cordova Hotel in 1888, owned by Boston architect Franklin W. Smith (who also built Villa Zorayda as his vacation home), but it never thrived in that era, and soon became a municipal building. Today it’s part of the Kessler Collection of hotels and has been given a new life as a celebration of Spanish Revival style. Hand-painted stencils, an elaborate lobby fountain, curated art, and other fanciful touches make it a fine home base for exploring St. Augustine architecture (views from the guest rooms look out on to Lightner Museum and Flagler College.) Its bar and restaurant Cordova will feel like a trip to southern Spain, known for its Moroccan influences.
Ponte Vedra Beach
Mediterranean influences abound at this AAA Five-Diamond resort. It’s not historic architecture, but this sister town to St. Augustine provides a chance to soak in beachfront and golf amenities while close by the old town.
Photograph by Thuyvi Gates
What to know
St. Augustine is drivable from Atlanta, around six hours; it’s also an hour south from Jacksonville International Airport. Once you’re in the historic part, it’s walkable (and, in fact, the town has been named one of the most walkable places to visit by countless magazines). To avoid crowds, stick to the side streets such as Aviles Street, make sure to walk to Lincolnville Historic District (which tells the story of the city’s African-American history), see the Castilo de San Marcos fort (circa 1695), and drive out to the St. Augustine Lighthouse, but be warned that there are plenty of tourist-filled areas. As a popular place to visit, the St. Augustine Distillery is a turn-of-the-century building that once housed an ice plant and is now an impressive destination for tours of its award-winning spirits; next door is Ice Plant Bar, known for its Instagram-worthy cocktails and farm-to-table food.
For more info, see Florida’s Historic Coast.
