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Buford Highway’s restaurants and workers face additional threats due to COVID-19. They might also be better equipped to survive it.
The Barreras’ handmade bolillo rolls draw lines out the door—at 7 a.m.
The restaurant is owned by a family from Mexico City, and though the place has "tortas" in its name, it offers everything from sopes (a round disc of masa topped with beans, cheese, shredded lettuce, and crema Mexicana) to enchiladas to enormous meat and cheese filled quesadillas.