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Lauren Taylor Watt


Snapshot: 150 pounds of butchery at Pine Street Market

Rusty Bowers (left) and his assistant
Rusty Bowers (left) and his assistant

Photograph by Lauren Taylor Watt

Friday, 1:30 p.m.

“Is this your first time? It’s easy. We’re going to walk the cow in, slit its throat, and watch it bleed out. Then we’ll break it down,” Rusty Bowers says to me, as he watches my expression slowly turn into a look of horror. “Just kidding.”

The owner of Pine Street Market spends every Friday breaking down a 150-pound forequarter of beef from Brasstown Beef. “It’s, like, really fun. It’s like surgery. Like an animal autopsy almost,” he says. This particular cut will turn into 32 pounds of bones and trim loss, 25 pounds of steaks, 20 pounds of roasts, and 22 pounds of fat. Leftovers will be turned into ground beef, sausages, and frankfurters. Some of the bounty will be sold in the store, and some will go to customers across states lines or at farmers markets. A majority, though, will be sent to more than 30 area restaurants.

Snapshot: Meet the breadmaster of Star Provisions


6:11 a.m. at Star Provisions

Dorothy Copenhaver walks into the underground kitchen at Star Provisions every morning at 4 a.m. to prepare bread for Anne Quatrano and Clifford Harrison’s numerous restaurants. With the help of two assistants, Copenhaver is responsible for 420 or so baguettes, sourdough loaves, sandwich rolls, pastries, and biscuits sold upstairs at the bakery at Star Provisions and Bacchanalia, as well as at Little Bacch and Floataway Café. “It actually gets increasingly crazy as the week goes on. The closer we get to the weekend, the more we have to make in order to prepare for the Freedom Farmers Market on Saturday and just the weekend rush in general,” says Copenhaver.

Snapshot: Inside Cooks & Soldiers’ Friday night experiments


12:34 a.m. at Cooks & Soldiers
Chefs at Cooks & Soldiers end every Friday night with a brief exercise, in which one person is charged with creating a dish to serve to the rest of the staff. The goal, says executive sous chef John Castellucci, is to create a platform where cooks can try new things and bridge the gap between simply being creative and actually creating.

Dishes are first paired with a wine, and here, after six tries, Nicolas Quinones settled on a 2007 Juve Y Camps Brut Nature Reserva de la Familia Cava to complement Victoria Shore’s tempura fried piquillo pepper filled with vanilla custard and served with spiced chocolate brioche and piquillo jam. Once Shore explained her inspiration for the dish, her fellow chefs chimed in, complementing the dish’s sweet-and-savory balance but critiquing its texture.

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