A first look at Bistro Niko’s menu

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Our man “Micropundit” obtained an early copy of the menu at Bistro Niko, Buckhead Life Restaurant Group’s new venture in the Sovereign building that is scheduled to open tomorrow night. The company states the restaurant aims to be a bistro that “offers a lighter version of classic French cuisine.” And—I’ll be darned—this menu actually looks French! True-minded interpretations of that cuisine have become scarce in these parts. The menu, overseen by ex-Pano’s and Paul’s longtimer Gary Donlick, is long on cozy dishes: roast chicken, white bean soup, bouef Bourguignon with beef cheese, baba au rhum. Duck fat fries? Oh, yeah. Reasonable prices reflect the times, though I’m a little worried about the “faux gras” terrine and the “mock caviar Malossol” I see listed.

But so much of it looks like a welcome bit of something different. Here’s a taste of what awaits in the appetizer and main course categories, though keep in mind that the offerings may have been tweaked last minute. Meet you there for a glass of white Burgundy and some melted raclette.

Hors d’oeuvres

SOUPE D’HARICOT BLANC white bean soup, white truffle oil  7.00

SOUPE A L’OIGNON  French onion soup gratinée au gruyère  7.00

MOULES “GILBERT”  bouchot mussels, steamed, white wine, shallots, cream, parsley  9.00

SAUMON “CROQUE MONSIEUR”  brioche grilled smoked salmon, gruyère cheese, (4 pcs)  12.00

RAVIOLI DE LAPIN  rabbit ragu ravioli, buttery braising jus 12.00

POIVRON ROUGE FARCI BRANDADE DE MORUE  roasted piquillo peppers filled with classic blend of pureed potato & salt cod  8.00

THON ET SAUMON  tuna & salmon carpaccio, melon, ginger, orange  9.00

“FAUX” GRAS TERRINE  port wine glaze, baguette toast  12.00

RACLETTE AU FROMAGE  specialty melted cheese, pickled mushrooms  8.00

TARTARE DE BOEUF  classic steak tartare, gaufrette chips  9.00

THON A LA NIÇOISE  seared tuna nicoise  12.00

ESCARGOTS “EN CROÛTE”  garlic butter, pernod, puff pastry
 

Entrées

CREVETTES EN PATE DE BRIQUE  Bayou la Batre white shrimp crisped in thin pastry, artichokes, fingerling potatoes, Parisien mushrooms, lemon aioli  19.00

TRUITE MI FÛME AMANDINE  sautéed short smoked mountain trout, toasted almonds, citrus olive oil emulsion, haricot vert, horseradish celeriac slaw  18.00

SAUMON BEURRE ROUGE  Loch Duarte salmon, braised baby leeks, port wine beurre rouge  22.00

MORUE PIPPERADE  Maine cod simmered in olive oil, confit of red & yellow peppers, olive tapenade  18.00

SOLE BARIGOULE  roasted Maine lemon sole, artichokes, carrots, pearl onion stew  18.00

BOEUF BOURGUIGNON  “kobe beef” cheeks braised in Burgundy wine, macaroni, baby carrots  22.00

VEAU HACHIS PARMENTIER  veal osso bucco “sheppard’s pie,” celeriac-potato puree, petite salad vinaigrette  24.00

COQ AU VIN ROUGE  braised Ashley farm’s chicken in red wine, bacon, mushrooms, potato puree  17.00

PORC MILANESE  sauteed Berkshire pork sirloin cutlet, arugula, green apple, pickled red onion  19.00

AGNEAU CASSOULET DE JAMBE  braised Elysian farm lamb shank, cous cous, apple, currants, prunes  24.00

QUICHE AUX POIREAUX  ham & leek quiche, petite salad vinaigrette 14.00

POUSSIN RÔTI “A LA MINUTE” ET FRITES  our specialty “fresh roasted,” Palmetto farms whole young chicken, duck fat fries  18.00

TOURNEDOS AU POIVRE  twin beef tenderloins, cracked pepper crusted, brandied cream mushrooms  29.00

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