Gio’s Chicken Amalfitano
The menu at Gio’s—owned by Giovanni Di Palma, the impresario behind Antico Pizza Napoletana next door—is simple: seven versions of roasted chicken dishes and four pastas, available in single or family-style sizes (both generous). Order at a counter for carryout or dine at one of a few tables in a cozy side room. The Sorrento chicken—dressed with lemon juice, lemon slices, garlic, olive oil, and oregano—is an early standout, a merger of sharp and mellow flavors that exemplifies why Americans love Italian food. For a feisty accompaniment, try the Napoletana pasta: ziti tossed with bitter rapini and the same piquant sauce that Di Palma uses for his pies. Simple Italian reds are also available. This is quick-service food cooked with heart.