Karatassos the father provided the venue, Atlanta’s first fine-dining Greek estiatorio, and Karatassos the son ran with the concept, showing once and for all that talent runs in the family. Some of the best and freshest seafood in the city passes through this kitchen, and the family recipes have been given a marvelous upscale twist.

We love the wood-grilled octopus served over a simple pickled red onion salad with a splash of red wine vinaigrette. Whole fish like royal dorade (a swimmer in the bass family) is a worthy investment, but for today’s ADHD eating habits you could make a meal of the small “mezze” plates. Hawaiian herb-crusted white tuna with quinoa salad and preserved lemon wowed at a late spring meal, as did pancakelike zucchini fritters slathered with feta and spiced yogurt.

Greek wines, ouzo, and good service make for a fine time, and the over-the-top decor adds a touch of magic to this Buckhead Life Restaurant Group fantasy.