Northern China Eatery

Once known only for catering to expatriates from mainland China at breakfast, this hole-in-the-wall along Buford Highway now excels beyond salted soy milk with crisp Chinese doughnuts, steamed flower bread, and pan-fried pork and chive dumplings. In the hands of a chef from Tianjin in northern China, the kitchen offers deeply satisfying wheat-based specialties (green onion bread and soup dumplings among them) and hot pots (try the tofu, meatballs, and glass noodles). Not to be overshadowed, specialties such as lamb ribs fried in cumin and large pork meatballs known as “lions’ heads” steamed over cabbage should also be on your bucket list.