Buckhead society treats these splashy digs (which recall the eighties with mirrored walls and platform floors) as its neighborhood pasta joint rather than a special-occasion destination.

Thanks to chef Piero Premoli, a native of Milan who took over the kitchen in 2005, dishes such as spaghetti with veal meatballs and delicious pizzas topped with wild mushrooms and locally grown oregano satisfy the need for sensible food. Keep an eye out for the chef’s special regional Italian menus, which often run in cooler months and are posted on the restaurant’s website.