Courtesy of Visit Greenville SC
The word is out that Greenville, South Carolina, is a hot destination. Case in point: Conde Nast Traveler recently named it one of the top five small cities in America. Set against the backdrop of the Blue Ridge Mountains, it has more than 100 miles of challenging cycling trails that have earned it the nickname “Bikeville.” Its downtown alone lays claim to 200 restaurants, prompting Travel + Leisure to call it one of the country’s top-10 food cities. And its popular annual festivals draw crowds by the thousands.
Here, we sit down with three in-the-know Greenville residents to discover the city through their eyes. From hotspots to hidden gems, they share the places no visitor to their hometown should miss.
Joe Cash, Owner and Founding Chef, Scoundrel—an Esquire Best New Restaurant
Courtesy of Scoundrel Restaurant
“Most of my family is here or in the next town over,” says Greenville-born-and-raised chef Joe Cash. He fell in love with working in restaurants as a teen and earned his degree at what is now the Culinary Institute of the Carolinas.
He went on to land jobs in Charleston and New York City, making a name for himself in top-tier kitchens, including chef Thomas Keller’s 3-Michelin star restaurant, Per Se. He then moved to Copenhagen to work at René Resdzepi’s Noma, rated the best restaurant in the world for several years running.
After a dozen years away, he felt the pull to return home, craving more space for his growing family and a new challenge. “There’s a huge culinary scene here; people love food,” Cash says. “I wanted to come here, push the boundaries a little bit, and step it up.” He accomplished that goal when he opened Scoundrel on Greenville’s Main Street in 2022. The restaurant’s French bistro fare quickly garnered national buzz: Esquire named it one of the “best new restaurants in America,” and it scored a 2024 James Beard Award nomination in the best new restaurant category. The kitchen is known for its crave-worthy bread made with Carolina-milled wheat, tableside steak tartare, creamy deviled crab, and tomahawk ribeye with duck fat fries.
Courtesy of Scoundrel restaurant
Cash says he loves putting down roots in the city where he grew up, especially now that he and his wife, Jocelyn, have two children. “Greenville is just beautiful,” he says. “It has a mix of everything—you have a little bit of the city and a little bit of outdoors.” You’ll find his family exploring the Swamp Rabbit Trail, a 28-mile path along a historic railway corridor that connects Greenville with Travelers Rest, and cheering on the city’s pro hockey team, also called the Swamp Rabbits, at Bon Secours Wellness Arena.
Courtesy of Visit Greenville SC
For Cash, there’s something nostalgic about returning to the heart of the city, as both a resident and a business owner. “Growing up here, there was always something cool happening downtown,” he says, referencing major events such as Fall for Greenville and Downtown Alive. “Coming back, I wanted to do something big and bold, so Main Street was the only place I looked for restaurant space. Watching it grow so much over the last 30-plus years, and now being a part of it, is so awesome.”
Joe Cash’s Greenville Picks
Tee time: “I play Pebble Creek Country Club a lot with some friends. I’m not very good at golf, but it’s a nice, easy course.”
Diner-mite: “My family loves to eat at the Clock, which used to be a drive-in. It’s an old-school spot for burgers and hot dogs.”
In style: “A.P.B. downtown has some really cool brands like Represent and Comme Des Garçons, with fashion-forward sneakers and streetwear.”
Hall pass: “Gather Greenville food hall is great for whatever you’re craving. Fried chicken sandwiches . . . you name it. Go have lunch and hang out. They always have things for the kids to do, so it’s a blast.”
Sweet spot: “Clare’s Creamery has outstanding ice cream. Their lavender-honey flavor is outrageous.”
Watering hole: “Swordfish Cocktail Club is a hidden gem. Their bartenders can make whatever you want. Everything is carefully crafted and served in beautiful glasses. They have a killer grilled cheese sandwich on the late-night menu.”
• • •
Ashley Garrett, Anchor at Fox Carolina News
Moving to different stations around the country is par for the course in broadcasting, but Orlando-born Fox Carolina News Morning Show co-anchor Ashley Garrett has found a home in Greenville since moving here three years ago. “It’s truly a beautiful city,” she says. “It has fun and excitement but also tranquil and peaceful vibes,” she says. “You get the best of both worlds.”
In her role as one of the faces of local news, Garrett has made it her business to engage with the community, covering stories from historic preservation efforts to new business openings. It’s given her a close-up view of what makes Greenville special. “From my vantage point, I’ve been able to see the city’s efforts to hold on to the green spaces we have. The area is truly breathtaking,” she says. She mentions spots such as Unity Park, with its five distinct walking trails, and Falls Park, with its cantilevered 345-foot Liberty Bridge spanning the waterfalls created by the Reedy River. Both are inside the city limits and easily accessible.
Courtesy of Visit Greenville SC
Walkability is another huge reason Garrett has fallen in love with this growing city. “Folks can just park their cars once and be out all day,” she says. “They can grab a drink here, a meal there, do some shopping there . . . The options for entertainment downtown are really endless,” she says. She recommends taking in a show at the Peace Center, which hosts everything from comedy to Broadway productions to concerts.
As a self-described foodie, another of Garrett’s favorite things about Greenville is the breadth of dining destinations. “The options are endless; this is a foodie town,” she says. “You will never go hungry in the city of Greenville.” A frisson of excitement infuses her voice as she talks about places and dishes she loves downtown, from the macaroni-filled waffle topped with fried chicken at Tupelo Honey Southern Kitchen & Bar to surf and turf paired with cocktails at Halls Chophouse. “All my favorite places have such good service,” she adds. “You have to have that good Southern hospitality.”
Ashley Garrett’s Greenville Picks
Potted paradise: “Plant Stella is a four-in-one shop, opened last year downtown. Not only do they sell beautiful plants, they also sell some of the most delicious Boba tea. Upstairs is a cute clothing boutique with the prettiest colors and lots of different styles, and the outside deck and event space has a cozy vibe. You might be able to see a live performer. The owner Kate is also super sweet. She’ll take care of ya.”
Downtown digs: “I would suggest the AC Hotel by Marriott Greenville in Camperdown Plaza. It’s very beautiful. It’s in the heart of the city downtown, so there’s lots of good eating, shopping, and scenery right there.”
Main event: “The CCNB Amphitheatre is a nice venue. It’s big and beautifully landscaped. They really know how to host you and provide a great experience.”
Night out: “The Cazbah has a really intimate date-night vibe with delicious small plates. I love the ‘Daily Bread’ grilled sourdough bowl and the free-range chicken enchiladas.”
• • •
George Hincapie, Former Pro Cyclist and Co-Owner, Hotel Domestique
During his career as a professional road cyclist, George Hincapie was drawn to the South, seeking warmer weather that would allow him to train outdoors year round. Greenville, with its mountainous climbs and winding valley roads, had much in common with the European terrain he navigated during his 17 Tours de France. Beyond its natural assets, he fell in love with Greenville’s restaurants, abundant parks, and family-friendly vibes. And so, 20? years ago, he decided to make it home.
In 2012, Hincapie and his brother Rich opened Hotel Domestique in the foothills of Travelers Rest, about 20 minutes outside of Greenville, transforming the shuttered La Bastide inn into a luxury hotel with amenities reminiscent of his time in Europe. “Riding by, I always thought it would be cool to get the hotel renovated and going again,” he says. “I wanted to make it a great destination for anybody and a world-class cycling destination as well.” Likewise, the name is a double entendre: It’s both French for “servant” and the role Hincapie played on cycling teams, working to keep the team’s lead cyclist in a winning position.
Courtesy of Hotel Domestique
The sprawling boutique property has 13 rooms and suites, all named for prime cycling spots in France (“Aspin,” “Chartres”). Serious cyclists will find all they need for an enjoyable stay, including an on-site bike mechanic, in-room massagers to knead out stiff muscles, and a wellness room outfitted with Torque and NordicTrack equipment and a cold plunge. Guests hoping to simply relax or explore the area will appreciate amenities such as the saltwater pool, hot tub, infrared sauna, and pantry stocked with complimentary snacks. The hotel’s on-site restaurant, Restaurant 17, has become a local destination for European-inspired cuisine created by Chef Haydn Shaak, a recent South Carolina chef ambassador. Visitors who come sans bike can rent one preloaded with navigation to Hincapie’s favorite local training routes.
Although running the hotel and leading Gran Fondo Hincapie cycling events around the country keep Hincapie busy, he says he loves spending time with his wife Melanie and three children in Greenville. “It’s just this cool, walkable little downtown people fall in love with,” he says. “There are restaurants everywhere, and you’re just steps from Falls Park on the Reedy River.”
Over the last 20 years, Hincapie has seen the community grow, but its essential charms—great weather, friendly locals, and gorgeous natural scenery—remain. “It’s getting a little busier, but it’s still relatively quiet,” he says. “If you know where to go, it remains a great place to ride.”
George Hincapie’s Greenville Picks
Morning pick-me-up: “There’s a cool food hall on the Swamp Rabbit Trail called the Commons. There are a couple of great restaurants and [locally roasted] Methodical Coffee. The egg sandwich there is my go-to.”
Kid central: “I go to Unity Park all the time. It’s a spectacular place for kids with four playgrounds. Falls Park is also really picturesque.”
Plate-a-pasta: “I really like Jianna, which is an Italian place right downtown. It’s close to the river and right across the street from the pedestrian bridge overlooking the waterfall. I usually order the pasta special of the day—especially if it happens to be lasagna.”
Courtesy of Jianna
Smart art: “Art Crossing galleries are a great spot to check out local art. My buddy Jared Emerson is a great artist who has studio space there. I have a bunch of his pieces.”
This article appears in the Summer 2024 issue of Southbound.
