Photograph by Getty Images
Five years ago, New Orleans was turned upside down by Covid. Last year, however, confirmed a postpandemic renaissance and a tourism boom—a return for New Orleans as a prime destination location. The city had record or near-record attendance for Mardi Gras and the Jazz Fest, among other events, as if the entire world were crawling out of a dark cave and sought New Orleans as a place to bask in the glow of sunshine again.
On New Year’s Eve, the city was again knocked to its feet, this time by a terrorist attack, which killed 14 people celebrating on Bourbon Street, along with the perpetrator. But New Orleans’ now-trademark resilience can be found anew as it prepares for another season of major events, including the Super Bowl, which was within weeks of Mardi Gras (March 4), and spring events such as the French Quarter Festival (April 10–13) and the New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival (April 24–27, May 1–4).
Photograph by Spy boy, Mohawk hunters, New Orleans, 2014 From the CIMARRON (2014-2019) Charles Fréger. Thames&Hudson
The overarching narrative for the Big Easy seems to be that everything old is new again. The most notable trends include multipurpose boutique hotels that seek to revitalize old, historic buildings and feature high-end cuisine and sensuous lounges; restaurants that either embrace more varied cuisines or reimagine older legacies; bars that take the craft cocktail revolution to an entirely new level; and live-music venues that balance the needs of loyal middle-class locals with well-heeled tourists and conventioneers.
Black culture has for centuries been part of the backbone of New Orleans but increasingly is becoming more centered in the cultural economy. Black-owned businesses and cultural spaces thrive more than ever in New Orleans. Backatown Coffee Parlour (301 Basin Street), perched on the border of the French Quarter and Treme, became so vital as a gathering spot that owner Alonzo Knox found himself running for, and winning, a seat in the Louisiana State Legislature.
DJ Johnson has converted Baldwin & Co. Coffee + Bookstore (1030 Elysian Fields Avenue) from a neighborhood po’ boy shop into not only an homage to the Black writer and intellectual James Baldwin, but also a space for author appearances and readings. Artist Brandan “BMike” Odums’s gallery StudioBE (2940 Royal Street), housed in a 36,000-square-foot warehouse about 12 blocks downriver from the French Quarter, is named after his first solo project of massive, graffiti-style works.
Photograph by Elsa Hahne
Malik Bartholomew’s Know NOLA Tours explores Black heritage in the city and New Orleans’ African diasporic culture, featuring an overview of the city’s integral role in the Atlantic slave trade with stops at such cultural touchstones as Congo Square, across from the French Quarter. Whitney Plantation in Edgard, a 30-minute drive from the city, offers a historically accurate depiction of life for enslaved people.
New Orleans continues to add, and add onto, a range of attractions around its downtown core. Start with Vue Orleans, at the foot of Canal Street, atop the former World Trade Center, which offers a 360-degree, 4D interactive interpretation of the city’s history and culture.
Both The National World War II Museum in the Warehouse District (945 Magazine Street) and The Historic New Orleans Collection in the French Quarter (520 Royal Street) recently went through major expansions. The former’s Liberation Pavilion showcases exhibits on the Holocaust and the postwar years, while the latter’s new campus has expanded its footprint by more than 35,000 square feet and doubled its publicly available spaces.
Audubon Aquarium (1 Canal Street) has undergone an eight-month, $41 million renovation, and Audubon Insectarium has relocated there.
Photograph by Cedric Angeles
Where to stay
Hotel Peter and Paul (2317 Burgundy Street) is a converted Catholic church, convent, rectory, and school in Faubourg Marigny. It blends history and modernity with uniquely designed and themed rooms, the elegant Elysian Bar (with an expansive dining menu), and even a yoga space.
Hotel Saint Vincent (1507 Magazine Street) honors the building’s former role as an orphanage in the Lower Garden District. It features multiple cocktail and dining spaces (including the San Lorenzo restaurant) and even a Sunday flea market.
Photograph by Jeremy Tauriac
Where to eat
Dakar NOLA (3814 Magazine Street) turned heads in 2022 when it opened in a renovated Uptown shotgun house. Chef Serigne Mbaye’s fusion of Creole and his native Senegal cuisines is served as a seven-course tasting menu that is meant to be shared. Dakar NOLA spun heads yet again when it was honored with the 2024 James Beard Award for Best New Restaurant.
The Bell (3125 Esplanade Avenue) is just a stone’s throw from the fairgrounds that host Jazz Fest. The Creole cottage has been reimagined as a British pub, with chef Marcus Jacobs’s menu dancing between standard pub fare and local flavors (fishmonger’s pie, Louisiana shrimp with Marie Rose sauce).
Back to Must-Do South.
This article appears in our March 2025 issue.
