Georgia may not claim a distinct barbecue style, but it does have a long-standing tradition of chopping pork into minced shreds rather than pulling it. The technique persists at country old-timers like Fresh Air Bar-B-Que in Jackson, but Bill Greenwood and his crew keep the practice alive closer to home in Roswell. Greenwood wisely doesn’t dice the meat too finely, so it still maintains a satisfying chew, and you can better relish the echo of sweetness that comes from tossing a bit of fruitwood in with the hickory during smoking. Take a first bite unadorned, then drizzle on some of the South Carolina mustard sauce. Look around: Is there any more evocative restaurant for eating barbecue in the metro area than this knotty cabin with a battered canoe propped above the doorway and shelves of vinyl records along the back wall? The gloppy ribs, mopped with sauce over a grill, are crowd-pleasers. For sides, try the thick fried green tomatoes and the tangy collards. 1072 Green Street, Roswell, 678-352-1975, swallowatthehollow.com
This article originally appeared in our May 2013 issue.
